If you don't have an amp probe it's recommended to take the motor in to a local repair shop or have an electrician come to your house for further diagnosis. You could also have under size wire from panel or too long of a run on wire itself from panel. The unit could be starved for power, have a weak ground, have low voltage, a poor connection or burnt contacts on starter or pressure switch etc…Amp probe will most likely show over-amping. Look at the amp rating on the motor plate and put an amp probe on the motor if and when it starts bogging down. You may have an under-powered motor, or the motor is too small. If it is the wrong motor not matching the correct motor pulley you may be overloading the motor. If you have a 230 V motor converted to 120, you may have lost some pulling power. Make sure you have the right motor pulling the Pump.It sounds like the motor is slowing down but what is really happening is the belt is slipping. Compressors do NOT squeal when the belts slip. Do not over tighten belt, it will break the crankshaft or burn up a bearing. Tension should be about one half inch (1/2") deflection or give at a point halfway between pulleys when pressed with your thumb. 90% of the time, low RPM is caused by OLD hard belts.If there is corrosion on the points, the starter capacitor never kicks in and helps the motor to start. At this point, the other capacitor, the run capacitor continues to keep the motor running. One of the round hump capacitors helps to start the motor and when the motor reaches high enough speed the weights and springs open the points and the starter capacitor then stops sending a charge to the motor. This opens the circuit between the starter capacitor and the motor. When the motor builds up speed, the small weights on the springs swing out and separate the points. Take an emery file and file between the contact points to clean them. Sometimes corrosion will build up on them. At the end of this stick are electrical contact points. Extending from the round disc you should see a long slender piece of copper or other material, the size of a wooden coffee stirring stick. Under the cover, you will see a white plate that has the wire terminals. Use a screwdriver and small hammer to gently remove the end cover. This should be held on with 4 long bolts and nuts that run the length of the motor. Remove the end of the motor that has the wires entering it.If your motor begins to start your compressor, but slows down, stalls and then kicks the circuit breaker, you could have bad starter points.Do they look overheated? Use a capacitor tester or if not available, test continuity across the leads of the capacitor.These are the “humps” on the back of the motor. Good indication that you have a defective check valve.If motor works fine and powers compressor pump until cut-out pressure, but when the compressor cuts back on and tries to recharge the tank, it is unable to start and stalls.Keep you intake filter clean and even if you're not using your compressor, drain your tank regularly to prevent rust, especially in humid climates. If pressure is low, usually replacing the Piston (Compression) Ring and Valve Plate Assy will restore compression. Make sure to keep spare parts on hand so that your down time will be minimal. You will see the part pop up and are able to order by simply choosing the quantity of parts that you need. To make ordering easier, we have created the ability for you to order parts by simply enlarging the schematic and then using your mouse to hover over the actual part. We keep the most popular Craftsman 919.152811 parts in stock and we can order most other parts in a matter of a few days. We have accessories as well as compressor oil to keep your pump running like a top. We have helpful sales team members that can assist you with your repair. Craftsman 919.152811 parts are easy to come by at Master Tool Repair. Whether you need a pressure switch, check valve or a whole new pump, we have your parts. We have your Craftsman 919.152811 parts here.
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